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Q: I just hired a new installation crew. I'm trying to train them to be efficient, but some of the guys seem too efficient, cutting too many corners to get done quicker. Do you have a list of installation "don'ts" I can give them?
1) Skipping moisture testing and wood acclimation. These are the key elements for a successful job. Many contractors still do not take the time to test the substrate for the correct moisture content or allow the wood to acclimate to living conditions of the job site. Acclimation depends on the region,grade and environment, from rainwater management to the water table level. If the subfloor's moisture content is higher than the flooring's MC by 4percent or more, cupping may occur.
2) Ignoring flatness and stability of the substrate. Take extra time to flatten the subfloor and make the homeowner aware that wood transfers any humps,dips and other imperfections in the substrate. If you are using a latex leveler, the substrate must be clean,dry and sound. Be sure the leveling compound is dry before flooring installation. Look for weak spots and bounce in the substrate before installation begins. Also, inspect the substrate for subfloor thickness,approved subfloor materials and correct spacing of the floor joists. When working with concrete, be sure to use appropriate adhesives that will bond correctly to the concrete.
3) Sloppy racking. Always keep appearance in mind while racking. Begin installation by using the longest,straightest boards. Pay attention to the guides for end-joint spacing (the wider the board, the longer the spacing should be). Placing shorts in closets, hallways and away from focal areas is the best way to work them in and prevent wasted bundles of "aces." Avoiding "H-joints" and clustered end joints helps prevent unstable areas in the floor.
4) Face-nailing too many boards. Only top-nail the first two rows, and try to hide the nails in the grain of the board. Oftentimes top nails are too close together,which draws the eye of the inspecting homeowner. Also drill and hand blind-nail the first rows. Do the same with the last boards—hand-nail as much as you can, and hide top nails. Glue down the last few row sunder toe kicks and areas where you can't use a nail gun or hand nail.
5) Leaving dead joints and loose ends. When adding borders, custom inlays and direction changes in the boards, always use a slip tongue/spline to hold the joints tight. This helps prevent imperfections in the floor during sanding and prevents the ends from moving during seasonal changes. Good examples of loose ends and bad joints are bull noses that rock as you walk on them and mitered corners that rise over time. This also applies to factory-finished wood floors.
6) Rushing through layout. Taking extra time with the layout, especially for custom installations, prevents costly mistakes, waste and embarrassment. Double check the layout with the blueprint and be sure the installation crews have a working knowledge of the installation.
7) Not inspecting the wood. The final inspector is the installer. Always check the grade, color, specie and character marks in the boards. Taking the boards out before they are nailed down is much easier. If you are not pleased, imagine the homeowner's reaction.
8) Over-nailing and mixing fasteners. Never mix staples with cleats. Each fastener has a different holding power, and not allowing the boards to work as a system can cause penalization. The correct nail schedule should be maintained during the installation. Over-nailing can split the tongue, increasing the seasonal movement and causing popping and creaks in the floor.
9) Ignoring transitions. Transitions are focal points,and choosing the wrong or cheapest transition methods could cost you money. Pay close attention to the focal points and overall appearance of the floor. Transitions can make big money when custom made on the job site, however, they can cost you money if you do not make them a concern during installation.
10) Miscalculating waste factors. Many times the job can't be completed because you do not have enough wood to finish the last 5 or 15 square feet. The normal waste factor on most jobs is 3 to 5 percent. When the job is laid on angles, the waste factor increases to 10percent. Custom borders and installations can have a20 percent waste factor. Not being able to complete the job because you did not calculate the waste factor is a waste of time.
These simple recommendations may seem like old hat, but it's the simple things that cost you the most money. Taking extra time with homeowners and meeting their expectations will save money and give them confidence in your knowledge and skills. Never cheat the job; it will always come back to get you.