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Over the last few years, the floating method of flooring installation has exploded. A big push for this method in America came as a result of the laminate flooring industry utilizing the floating method and making a huge entrance in the North American market in the middle of the last decade. However, this method of flooring installation was around long before laminate's popularity surged. A wood flooring manufacturer created the idea of a floating floor more than 60 years ago in Sweden. At the time, one of the unique aspects of this new installation method was that the floor itself was constructed differently to handle the properties particular to the floating method.
Although many of the products and installation methods in the wood flooring industry have changed during the last 60 years, the basic rules for a floating installation of a wood floor have remained virtually unchanged. Floating wood floor installation can be broken into four categories: job-site preparation, layout, tools and techniques, and trim. Each category has a few simple steps. (For more on concrete subfloor preparation, see "Be Prepared" on page 49 in the February/March 2003 issue.)
Always remember this rule: Never acclimate floating floors prior to installation unless directed to do so by the manufacturer. Most floating floors are designed to be installed in a non-acclimated state. Acclimation of the product could result in a difficult installation.
Necessary tools/equipment:
- Tape measure
- Chalkline
- Pencil
- Moisture meter
- Razor-blade knife
- Knocking block
- Expansion shims
- Last-board puller
- Hammer (for some systems)
- Jamb saw
- Circular saw
- Chisel
Step 1:
The first rule for subfloors is that they be firm—with little or no movement. Check the installation guide for the manufacturer's tolerance for subfloor deflection, or for the required construction of a wood subfloor. The next rule is that subfloors must be flat. This can be measured by using a long straightedge to check for high or low spots that lie outside the manufacturer's requirements. High spots need to be ground down and low spots need to be filled. Low spots usually can be filled with any non-compressible media such as floor leveling patch or roofing felt.
Step 2:
Subfloors also need to be dry. Use a moisture meter to check wood subfloors, making sure the moisture content falls within the manufacturer's recommended levels.
Step 3:
Although there are concrete moisture meters available, most manufacturers specify the results of a calcium-chloride test. It is important to know the manufacturer's specification and record all moisture-testing results before the installation.
Step 4:
All floating floors include an underlayment. Although there are many features built into underlayments today, (cushioning and sound absorption, for example) the most important function of an underlayment is to be a moisture barrier. Make sure to wrap the underlayment up the walls to encapsulate the flooring with the moisture barrier.
Step 5:
Since the installed floor will behave like one large piece of wood, the expansion that normally happens between individual pieces of flooring is transferred to the perimeter of the room. Before installation, calculate how much expansion space is necessary, based on the size of connected areas. This space usually ranges from 1/2 inch up to as much as 3/4 inch.
Step 6:
Undercut doors jambs to leave the required space underneath.
If you're installing a large area of flooring, realize that most manufacturers have a limit as to how large their floor can be without an expansion break—check the manufacturer's directions for specifics.
Step 7:
In a floating installation, the individual boards are simply attached to one another and not to the subfloor. Whether the floor you're installing uses a traditional tongue-and-groove joint or a new mechanical joint, make sure you're using the proper tools and techniques. Note that tools and techniques for assembling the boards vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. All manufacturers sell tools specific to their floors and installation methods. These tools are not only designed to simplify the installation but also to protect the floor as it is installed.
Step 8:
As you reach the end of a row, use the cutoff piece from the end of that row as the first board in the next. Pay attention to the stagger of the end joints in adjoining rows. Make sure they comply with the manufacturer's requirements. Continue this process until the room is complete.
Step 9:
To install the last row in a room, use a "last board puller" to pull the board into place.
Step 10:
Finish the installation by trimming off the excess underlayment that was wrapped up the wall.
Step 11:
Cover the expansion space with appropriate moldings to leave a professional look.
Step 12:
Finally, use overlap-style moldings at transitions and staircases to leave the appropriate expansion space.
Step 13:
Once that's done, your floor is complete—relatively quickly and with minimal mess.
Fit the Moldings
When installing a floating floor, the moldings used are designed to overlap the floor; this enables the floor to expand and contract normally under the lip of the molding. Make sure not to affix the molding to the finished flooring, but to the subfloor only.• Use a reducer when the floor meets a surface thinner than the flooring.• Use a square-nose reducer when the floor meets a surface thicker that flooring.• Use a T-molding only when the floor meets a surface of the exact same height.• When a floating floor meets a staircase going down, an overlap stairnosing must be used. All of these profiles allow the floor to float unobstructed while providing necessary transitions.