Don't oversell what you can do with a recoat. Take your time cleaning the floor of contaminants with whatever system you are using. Don't be afraid of running the system one more time to ensure it's clean. Always assume the homeowner or cleaning person did more than they say they did.
Steven Triplett Jr.
I only do them for previous clients. The risk-to-reward ratio isn't right.
Charge so much you can afford the occasional resand.
Do a test spot.
Ask a lot of questions as far as cleaning agents. Take your time to really look at the floor, and do a test spot if you have any concerns. Do not skip any steps in prep, and do not be afraid to walk away if you don't think recoating is going to work.
Randy Golaszewski Sr.
When recoating old floors, after the hard buff and vacuum we go around looking for low spots that did not get hit, and we hand-sand those shiny spots with a screen and then re-vacuum.
I like to add an alternate option for sanding if necessary due to conditions. That way they are relieved when it's not necessary—and also contractually tied to necessary change orders.
Do a thorough cleaning with a scrubber, then buff and coat.
Use an iron-clad disclaimer.
John W. Saunders
I prefer to hand-rub for recoats because usually the floor is not flat and the buffer will sand down high spots to raw wood, which becomes a problem, especially if it's a stained floor.
Ben Z. Nykiel
Stay away and sleep well.
TyKote and never look back.
A wise trainer, Daniel Boone, told me a long time ago to charge enough so that if it fails you have enough to cover your costs on the resand.
Use universal sealer and coat with whatever you want.
Be aware of waxy buildup while buffing the floors with screens or paper. It's an indicator for wax-based cleaning products, which makes some finishes difficult to stick to the floor. It's possible to use prepping products to help the new finish stick to the old finish.
See more on this topic: Recoating & Refinishing