Use the proper trowel suggested by the adhesive manufacturers. Too many guys grab any random trowel that does not have the proper size and notch.
We specialize in installing over radiant heat, where mistakes like hollow spots just can't happen, so we designed this system that won't damage the surface of factory-finished floors.
Make sure your sticky hands come in contact with every surface possible (walls, door handles, light switches, taps, furniture) so your boss completely loses his mind trying to clean up dried glue to collect a check.
We always grind our concrete slabs clean and never skimp on the glue.
If it's glue and nail, use a manual nailer. Also spread glue on all of your clothes prior to starting so you don't get upset when you get it on you.
Don't glue yourself into a corner.
With layout and careful planning it is possible to keep the glue off you and off the finished product and still be productive. Rushing and making a mess may get you dropping serious square footage, but at the cost of extensive clean up, it's just not worth it.
Clean and cover as you go. The biggest issue we see is adhesive on floors. Also consistently change your cleaning rag to avoid creating a haze from cleaning.
Eric R. Zurn
Use the proper tapping bar so you don't find damaged factory edges later.
Tell the new guy to bring an extra set of clothes if he wants a ride home at the end of the day.
Put tape on the face of the trowel. It makes cleanup A LOT easier.
Have a big bottle of mineral spirits or your favorite glue remover handy. Customers will always find glue spots.
Use a 6-foot level and run it all over the floor to diagnose hollow spots.
Lay all the extra boxes of wood on the floor as you go to weight it down evenly, then walk on the boxes instead of the wood so the new guy doesn't potentially track glue. Only glue in measured, snapped-line sections.
See more on this topic: Basic Wood Floor Installation